Bolivian Pollera, Tupiza and the road to the Uyuni Salt Flats

Alex Burridge – March 2024
MD South America Travel Centre

Tupiza is a stop-over town, mid-way between the border with Argentina and the Uyuni Salt Flats in Bolivia.  Unlike Potosi and Sucre to the north Tupiza is a non-touristic town; though legend has it that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their end at the hands of the Bolivian army near Tupiza.

Iguazu Falls viewed from the Brazilian side

BOLIVIAN POLLERA SKIRT

The town’s square is quite attractive and many of the town’s indigenous people gather here to socialise or just to soak up the sun.  Many of the ladies still choose to wear the traditional pollera skirt.  In Bolivia (and Peru) the word pollera denotes a pleated skirt which has strong ties with the urban mestizo and the rural indigenous classes. The pollera typical of the Bolivian altiplano is traditionally made of 8 metres of cloth and it is worn with several embroidered underskirts.

Despite its Spanish peasant origins, it is seen as a status symbol for women who are proud of their indigenous heritage. After the revolutions, the women of Bolivia continued to wear this style of dress, with many women seeing it as a part of their cultural identity. With the pollera, women usually wear a manta, which is a type of brightly coloured silky shawl, a frilly blouse and an apron. They use leg warmers to prevent themselves from becoming too cold. To finish the outfit, a bowler hat from 19th century Europe is worn.  These are known locally as bombin.

TUPIZA AND THE ROAD TO THE UYUNI SALT FLATS 

If you do travel to Tupiza or anywhere else in Bolivia please be respectful of many people’s wishes not to be photographed – our guide explained that some still believe it takes part of their soul.  After a careful request you’ll soon know if they are happy or not.

Just outside Tupiza is the Puerta del Diablo, or Devil’s Door, it’s a beautiful rock formation and an hour spent exploring the area is worthwhile.  It’s time to head to our main destination, the Uyuni Salt flats.  The newly constructed road means the trip is a little more comfortable and faster than my first trip 13 years earlier.  Soon we reach the highest point of this part of the journey 4,400m above sea level. The scenery is stunning hopefully the following images best show the ever changing landscapes, as the saying goes, ‘It’s not the destination, it’s the journey’

Being in our own vehicle we could take the opportunity to stop and enjoy the journey – as well as our next destination the Uyuni Salt Flats