Buenos Aires, Colonia del Sacramento and San Antonio de Areco

Alex Burridge – March 2024
MD South America Travel Centre

I have to be honest my first few visits to Buenos I saw more as simply somewhere to rest up before heading to the main focus on my trip.  On my last two stays I’ve lingered a little longer and grown to really enjoy this fabulous city and its local environs.

Co;lonia Lighthouse -Uruguay

Recoleta cemetery – Buenos Aires

La Bamba de Areco Estancia

BUENSO AIRES  

Certainly a Tango show (Tango Rojo at Faena is possibly the best) should be part of a visit, as is a visit to Recoleta and If you like arts and crafts be sure to visit on Sunday.

The area of the city known as Palermo Soho has become a trendy area with many small cafes, some really good street art, small markets and cool shops.  Legado Mitico is a small boutique hotel (formerly a large house) with 9 themed rooms and comfortable lobby and attractive internal garden it’s a very relaxing place from which to explore Palermo Soho.

Dining in Buenos Aires has also developed beyond just the traditional meat feast.  That said Don Julio offers those who do like their meat the very finest Argentinean beef; it’s currently ranked as the #3 restaurant in Latin America.

For those who want something with greater variety I can personally recommend Crizia (currently ranked at #41); Oysters are a must, as the web site stares; ‘given that chef Oggero has worked with the same cultivator since Crizia’s inception, almost 20 years ago’. The nine-course tasting menu, showcases seasonal products such as baby squid and the sought-after Patagonian toothfish and was probably the best meal of our 5 week journey.

COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO, URUGUAY 

The UNESCO protected town of Colonia del Sacremento in Uruguay is just a short hydro trip across Rio del Plata, immigration on both the Argentine and Uruguayan sides is easy/quick.  A couple of nights in this charming town is definitely worth adding to your itinerary.

Our guide Karen has spent her life in Colonia and obviously loves her home town. We wander through the cobbled streets of the old town, learning a little of the history (once part of Portugal, then Brazil, later Argentina and in 1828 an independent nation), as well as the best places for a glass of Uruguayan wine, locally made cheeses and empanadas.  As we thank Karen for sharing her knowledge and her home town with us she suggests that a lunch of paella cooked by Jose Luis is a very good, locally renowned, option. Jose Luis has been preparing his special dish for more than 20 years now. Determined not to miss out we arrive early as his two-hour long creation commences; you can tell that Jose Luis loves making a beautiful Paella; it’s made with care. With justifiable pride Jose Luis serves up two bowls of mouth-wateringly tasty paella.

Hotel El Charco is perched on the Rio del Plata’s edge, the restaurant is very good and the rooms very comfortable.  Its location also makes it a great choice, being within the old walled area of the town.

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO
(2 hours North of Buenos Aires)

A trip into San Antonio de Areco town is a must.  If you’re lucky enough to have the same taxi driver you’ll enjoy the trip to and from the Estancia.  For me his best lines were ‘When I was young I play polo, now siesta; polo is dangerous, siesta is not dangerous.’  ‘Sports I like now are asado, malbec and of course siesta’.

San Antonio de Areco is famous for its gauchos, horses, silversmiths and artisans.  Every year during the week of November 10th, San Antonio de Areco celebrates the Festival of Tradition, the official event for the Argentine gauchos. It is a fantastic opportunity to discover various equestrian Gaucho demonstrations.

The Estancia has eleven beautiful rooms.  You can ride a horse, take a carriage trip or explore by mountain bike and enjoy a traditional asado for lunch and visit the polo stables (there are ponies/horses here all year round).

With my passion for horses I have long wanted to visit estancia Le Bamba de Areco.  Within two hours of central Buenos Aires this Estancia is just beautiful.  The polo team bearing the same name is amongst the world’s best and from October to the start of December the team will often be seen practicing on the two manicured polo fields.  A local horse whisperer will also put on an amazing demonstration of how with time a special bond can be created between gaucho and his horse.

With my passion for horses I have long wanted to visit estancia Le Bamba de Areco.  Within two hours of central Buenos Aires this Estancia is just beautiful.  The polo team bearing the same name is amongst the world’s best and from October to the start of December the team will often be seen practicing on the two manicured polo fields.  A local horse whisperer will also put on an amazing demonstration of how with time a special bond can be created between gaucho and his horse.

Of course to include all three places/experiences takes the best part of a week and for me it formed a perfect start to our diverse five week journey; I guess it whets the appetite for some of what South America has to offer; great wine and cuisine, beautiful cultures and art, local traditions and excellent hospitality.