French Valley Hike, Torres del Paine Patagonia, Chile

Victoria Brown
South America Travel Centre Specialist Travel Consultant

On my recent travels to Patagonia I spent 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park at Hotel Las Torres which sits in a privileged location right on the track leading to Towers Base Camp and with the stunning backdrop of Almirante Nieto.

Travelling to Torres del Paine National Park has always been top of my bucket list and having only 2 full days to explore I wanted to choose the make the most of my time there and get a glimpse of the famous W Trek Circuit which I will no doubt be embarking on in the future!

I was very pleased to discover prior to my travels that I could choose my preferred excursions at Hotel Las Torres and get myself prepared for the adventure ahead. My two must-experience excursions which I hoped the weather gods would allow were French Valley & Towers Base Camp.

Victoria – Torres del Paine

Hotel Las Torres – awesome location

Room with a view – Las Torres

HOTEL LAS TORRES  

When I first arrived at Hotel Las Torres on day 1 and checked in at reception it was recommended that I go to the excursion desk and talk with the team there to book in my excursions for the next few days, eagerly I did so and was given the great news that the following day, the weather was looking sunny and cool and absolutely perfect for embarking on the French Valley hike! Barely able to conceal my excitement I choose from the box lunch menu and was guided to meet the guide at reception at 7:30am the following morning.

The sun was only just rising in the sky and as we drove away from the hotel and towards Lago Pehoe for our ferry ride, the granite rocks were a stunning pink colour and a full moon was still bright in the sky. When we got to the top of the hill opposite the hotel we got our first glimpse of the towering granite towers of Torres del Paine. Our guide suggested that we stop for photos which we eagerly did. The air was cold and crisp and we were all full of excitement about the day ahead. Soon we were boarding the Pehoe Catamaran which takes you to Paine Grande ranger station and refugio which is the starting point for our hike.

The views across the water are absolutely stunning, the catamaran was full to the brim (and to be guaranteed a berth you need to book in advance – which we can do for you) with excited hikers looking forward to the day (or days for some) ahead.

Arriving at Paine Grande we all clambered off and our guide took front position as we started our French Valley trek. It was an gentle start, the path was quite well defined and not too rocky. A little climb here and there but honestly it was barely noticed between the chatting and looking around in each direction at the pristine landscapes surrounding. As we gradually climbed the trail there were many opportunities to look at the beautiful turquoise waters of Lago Pehoe.

Having discussed our hiking experience on the journey to the trail, our local guide let us know that we could feel free to choose our own pace and he would stay at the back with the slower walkers to support them.

As I walked along the shore of Lago Skottsberg the views just kept getting better, with occasional glimpses of the shimmering grey rockface of Los Cuernos and the occasional view of the French Glacier between the mountains.

The trail became a little rockier underfoot, the walk was exciting and interesting and kept on offering something new. Falling into the rhythm of my own pace I embarked on my journey alone and there were moments which felt absolutely precious where I could not see anyone in front or behind me on the trail. Finding a spot to perch on a boulder on the side of the trail I stopped for my first food of the day since breakfast and was very pleased to discover in my lunch bag that there was a delicious, dense, homemade granola slice to enjoy. After that and some water and the reassuring glimpses of fellow hikers passing me by, I was recharged and off again finding my pace in the sunshine.   Soon enough I reached Italiano Base Camp.

I met up with some of the others in my group and we discussed if we would like to attempt the hardest part of the hike up to French Valley viewpoint – we all agreed we would! Here I noticed another change in landscape, this time we were heading onto a more noticeable climb, a glacial river rushed alongside us now as we walked towards the French Glacier. There were some sections of the trail which weaved into forest, where the shade from the trees created more of a chill in the air.

As the boulders became more frequent and the climb became steeper there are breathtaking views of the French Glacier, which at this point is close, so close I could hear the soft, yet thundering, sounds of the ice breaking, cracking, creaking.  Some hikers stopped on a boulder for a break and a reassessment of whether they would continue.

Two of us decided that we would continue and would egg each other on, I am super glad that we did as when we reached the French Valley viewpoint it literally took my breath away!  360-degree views from the rock plateau which seemed to be perfectly proportioned for all the other hikers to gather and find a spot to sit and quietly take it all in. Every few minutes it seemed we would hear the ice creaking and breaking and we would gasp as we watched the white rush of snow and ice falling down the glacier’s side. Sitting down and eating my sandwich on the rock, watching all the motion and listening to all the soft conversations around me I found myself full of joy and grateful for the opportunity to be here in this moment with the sun on my skin seeing this incredible natural phenomenon, in Torres del Paine National Park.

Soon enough the last traveller from our group joined us, we all finished our lunch we all headed back down the trail. I needed to take care on this next section as it was a little slippery underfoot and very rocky (it’s here walking poles can be of help), as I was full of energy after what I had just experienced and I made it back down to Italiano base camp without any issues.

After a break we all embarked on the final part of our hike, back to the pier, this time at a much faster pace, in part to make our ferry which departed at 5:30pm. We made it back in the nick of time just as the ferry was pulling into the pier.  I gratefully clambered back on to a very full catamaran to head back across the lake to the van.

As we walked up to the van we saw our guide and driver excitedly beckoning us over to the boot where they had set up an antipasto platter full of local cheeses, olives and meats, and they handed out beers and together we celebrated an epic day of adventure with big grins on our faces!