Patagonia Camp, Chile

Alex Burridge – November 2022
MD South America Travel Centre

After three nights at Tierra Patagonia (which was fabulous) it was time to move to a different area of the park and a new property – Patagonia Camp – staying in a Deluxe Yurt.  I don’t know why, but I assumed the accommodation and the camp would somehow be of a lesser quality – not at all.

Yurts were originally used by nomadic peoples of Mongolia; the yurts at Patagonia Camp offer all the facilities you’d get in a lodge as well as a view to the stars and the sounds of the wind that often move through the park; which for me added to the experience.

Deluxe Yurt lounge

Deluxe Yurt bedroom

Views across to Torres del Paine

THE PATAGONIA CAMP EXPERIENCE  

Patagonia Camp is in a secluded location surrounded by Lenga Beech forest on the shores of Lake Toro.  Upon arrival we were warmly greeted and after a very delicious lunch we were taken to our yurt.  A view across the lake to Torres del Paine mountains meant the setting was picture perfect.  A hot tub built into a small deck with equally stunning views made it feel all the more special/individual.

From our warm and very comfortable base we headed off on a number of walks and treks.  One such hike had us trekking up through snow covered forest trails to a look-out over Glacier Gray. Very strong winds as we approached the high point of the trail meant we didn’t get to ‘look-out’.

One of the highlights was the ‘Peninsula’ walk through the lands, a former Estancia, of Patagonia Camp, whilst not a ‘classic’ Patagonia hike it was a varied and most enjoyable walk of some 16km.  On the drive to the start point our gaucho driver spotted a skunk – with a big smile on his face he announced ‘Pepe le Pew’.  Our guide advised me not to get too close (I had no intention of getting too close as I knew they deter unwanted attention by sending stream of foul smelling spray).

We had our packed lunch in a beautiful spot overlooking the lake.  As it was on private property we had the trail to ourselves (something to consider in peak season – and of course the more famous hikes into French Valley and to Torres base camp are hard to ignore – that’s where time affords the opportunity to tackle the less well-known trails as well as the ‘stars’).

We saw Puma scat (though they don’t tend to stay in this area of the park as there are very few Guanacos) and witnessed a wonderful display by Andean Condors (I wish I had carried my camera with tele-photo lens) and I have to admit for about the last two kilometres I was thinking of climbing into the hot tub with a cold beer in hand.

Patagonia Camp is an excellent property, with great guides and excellent cuisine (the pastry chef was outstanding).  I’d suggest a minimum of three nights is warranted and if you want a day to just relax (which also gives flexibility for excursions if you had some less good weather – we were extremely lucky) I’d opt for four.

Torres del Paine is certainly worth at least 6 nights, more wouldn’t be too long.  A combination of say Tierra Patagonia and Patagonia Camp would offer the ‘best of both worlds’ as well as the opportunity to explore on foot, on horse-back and in a vehicle.  With perhaps time to relax and enjoy one of the properties facilities and views without feeling compelled to go on an excursion (which is always difficult as you never know if you’ll be back again or miss that Puma).

On leaving Patagonia Camp we had a longish day transiting the border with Argentina (which was straightforward) and driving to El Calafate, for an overnight stop before the final three-hour drive to El Chalten and our next yurt stay at Chalten Camp.